FAQ

• Delivery of the new hot water heater.
• Installation of new unit
• Fill & test
• Removal & Disposal of old unit
• A spotless clean-up
• Instructions on using your new unit

There are a couple things to look for to know what kind of hot water heater you currently have.

Gas – Is there a black or a flexible yellow or silver pipe going into the bottom of your hot water heater? If so you have a gas water heater. If there is a large PVC or Metal vent pipe coming from the top of your water heater you likely have a gas water heater. This vent pipe is used to force the exhaust created by the gas out of your home.

Electric – Electric heaters do not need the vent pipe from the top because there is no exhaust. If there is a large electrical wire (could look similar to an extension cord or small grey garden hose) going into the top of your heater this indicates you have an electric water heater.

We recommend you have one installed if you do not currently have one. Expansion tanks protect much of your plumbing system, like dishwasher valves and toilet valves. That’s why we charge so little for the installation.

Current building codes for new construction for the Nashville area requires an expansion tank be installed. Additionally, the manufacturers for the water heaters we install highly recommend expansion tanks if your home does not have one. Water expands when heated, and the water must have a place to go, or thermal expansion will cause an increase in pressure in your water lines. The Safe Drinking Water Act of 1974 requires a back-flow preventer and check valves to restrict water flow back into public water systems. Now, virtually all plumbing systems are 'closed,' and the thermal expansion tank allows excess pressure to be safely absorbed.

A two-gallon expansion tank is suitable for a water heater up to 50 gallons and a five-gallon expansion tank is best for anything larger.

For gas tank style heaters there are three common ways to vent the exhaust from your water heater.

Atmospheric Venting is the the most common venting system. You'll know it is atmospheric if the vent pipe goes through the ceiling and the vent pipe has a little space between the top of the water heater and the venting.

Direct Venting is commonly used to vent directly outside the space the the water heater is in and connects directly to your water heater with no space in between the top of the heater and the vent pipe. So the vent does a 90 degree turn directly outside the wall. If you have a direct vent water heater currently typically you have to replace with the same water heater. Below is an image of a direct vent model:

Power venting is common when you have to vent the exhaust a long horizontal distance. Power vents have a motor attached to assist the exhaust.

My water heater is leaking!

• Unfortunately, this is a common problem and typically means your water heater needs replacing. If the water is coming from a pipe connected to the water heater or from the pressure relief valve a repair may be possible. If your water heater is over 10 years old a replacement is the most likely solution.

I don’t have any hot water!

• If your water heater is fueled by gas check for a little blue flame at the bottom of your water heater. There is a little window you can look through. If there is no blue flame this could be a simple fix. Follow the directions on your water heater to relight the pilot or call us and we can do it. A bigger repair may be needed and if your water heater is over 10 years old it could be time for a replacement. We can discuss these options with you.
• If your water heater is electric, first check your circuit breaker to see if it is tripped. If this is the case it could be a one-off instance or could be the sign of an underlying problem that needs correcting. If the circuit is not tripped, you likely have a heating element or thermostat that has gone bad. Call us and we can discuss your options on a repair or replacement.

I don’t have enough hot water!

• Many water heaters that are over 10 years old may have excessive sediment buildup causing the unit to not heat properly. 
• The gas control valve or heating elements may not be working properly. 
• If your unit is too small it can’t make hot water fast enough.
• If your water heater is old a new unit can dramatically increase your hot water output. An upgrade to a larger unit could also be a solution. Depending on your hot water usage needs a tankless model could solve your problem. Call us and we can discuss your options.

My water is not very hot!

• Sometimes the dip tube that carries the cold water to the bottom the tank has broken. It is possible to fix but can be time consuming depending on how your water heater is attached to the plumbing. 
• It could also be a bad heating element for electric heaters or a gas control valve for gas water heaters. If you’re water heater is older than 10 years it is experiencing heavy corrosion and aging seals. A fix is possible, but it might only be a temporary fix. 

My water heater is noisy!

• Unfortunately, that probably means your water heater has excessive sediment buildup. The sediment traps water underneath it at the bottom of the tank, the water heats up and bubbles until—BANG—it escapes the sediment layer. This often sounds like a percolating coffee maker. It’s likely time for a new water heater.
• If the noise is a whistling sound it could be your drain valve has a leak or there is air trapped somewhere. Try tightening the valve at the bottom of your heater. If it is tight it could be the seal wearing out.

My pilot light will not stay lit.

• There are a couple reasons this could be happening, likely related to your thermocouple or thermostatic control valve.
• First, check that your other gas appliances are working properly. This is to make sure it’s not your gas supply. 
• Either the thermocouple or thermostatic control valve are malfunctioning. They shut off your gas because they can’t regulate temperature. A thermocouple is a pretty quick fix and cost effective. If it’s the control valve we have to replace the whole assembly. This is not very cost effective and unless your heater is under warranty it could be best to replace the whole unit. Call us to discuss your options.

If water is coming out of one of the pipes, it could be solved simply by replacing the broken pipe or joint. If the TP is leaking (the valve on the side of the tank) the heater might just be releasing excess pressure caused by the water heating. A little leaking from the TP is normal and part of the safety feature. If it is leaking a lot, give us a call and we can come out to diagnose the problem. If you see water coming from the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, try tightening it. If that fails or if you see water coming from anywhere else, call us for a professional examination.

That depends on the kind of water heater and on how well it has been maintained. Tank heaters generally last 8-15 years and tankless ones 15-20. Overtime, sediment builds up in the tank and water corrodes it. These cause your heater to run inefficiently (which increases your energy bill), to produce less hot water, and eventually to leak. But you can increase the lifespan by regularly maintaining it: through replacing the anode rod, regularly flushing the tank, and checking that everything is in order. The Hot Water Heater Pros offer a regular maintenance service as well as the Pros Protection Plan that includes annual maintenance and discounts on repairs.

The Federal government offers a rebate on heaters that have earned the Energy Star. They will rebate 30% of the cost of the project, up to $2000/year. But the rebate only goes to those homeowners who replace a heater in their main residence. It does not apply to new constructions or rental properties. To claim the rebate, the owner must fill out IRS form 5695. For more information, see: https://www.energystar.gov/about/federal-tax-credits/heat-pump-water-heaters. The TVA also offers an $800 rebate on heat pump water heaters. This rebate only applies to the replacement of a previous heater (not in new buildings). Also, the heater must be installed by a TVA-vetted, licensed, and insured installer. The homeowner should keep all records and receipts.

Pros: 1. You have infinite hot water on demand 2. Since there is no tank, you don’t have to worry about a tank breaking and flooding your house or garage 3. They have a longer lifespan than tank heaters, up to double the lifespan 4. They conserve energy because they only heat water when you need it 5. They take up less space and are usually wall-mounted. Cons: 1. They are more expensive than tank heaters 2. They take a brief time to warm up, so you will not get instantaneous hot water in the morning.

1. Lower your water heater’s thermostat. 120-degrees Fahrenheit is a good temperature to maintain, and you could even drop it to 110-degrees in the summer. 2. Flush the tank annually. This will reduce the sediment buildup and help the tank heat more efficiently. 3. Reduce your hot water consumption by fixing leaks, using energy-efficient appliances, and installing low-flow water fixtures. MTE also recommends washing your laundry with cold water. 4. Upgrade to a newer, more efficient heater, like a heat pump/hybrid water heater.

It is a measure of the amount of hot water the heater can supply in its first hour of operation when it's fully heated. This amount is equal to the capacity of the tank plus the recovery rate (how many gallons of hot water the heater can add in an hour).

Bacteria growth can cause a bad smell. Sometimes, if sediment sits in the tank for too long, it can breed foul-smelling bacteria. Also, the anode rod can react with sulfates in the water to produce hydrogen sulfide gas. The problem could also be outside your water heater. For instance, the water coming into the tank might have sulfur in it or some of your piping might be corroded.

Water will corrode the inside of a heater, so the anode rod, also called the “sacrificial anode rod” is designed to corrode first to protect the tank. It is made out of a metal that is negatively charged with respect to the tank (usually it is magnesium or aluminum), and as such, it gives off electrons much more easily and attracts sediment, which corrodes it before it corrodes the tank. When the anode rod is corroded, the sediment then eats away at the tank, and you will need to replace the rod.

The dip tube is a pipe that carries the cold tap water to the bottom of the tank before releasing it.

The water heaters we install come with a 6 year manufacturer’s warranty on the tank and its parts, a 1 year labor warranty, and a 1 year warranty on the Thermal Expansion Tank.